Empty road near Jacumba.

Finding US 80 Continued

Founded back in the days when wagons weren’t called SUVs, had wooden wheels and were drawn by horses, Jacumba looks like one of those small cow towns in southwestern Kansas or northern Oklahoma, except it doesn’t have a grain silo. Aside from the mountains in the background, it could be some place like Hardtner, Kansas. Of course, Hardtner is on the border with Oklahoma; Jacumba’s next door neighbor is Mexico.

Downtown Jacumba is home to its main attraction, the Jacumba Hot Springs Spa. The mineral pools have been attracting hot water fans for who knows how long, as they’ve been frequented by folks ranging from ancient Native Americans to Hollywood stars in the 1920s and 30s. The spa has reasonably priced motel rooms for overnighters. (44500 Old Highway 80, Jacumba, 619-766-4333).

A large hotel, built by Bert Vaughn (who also built the Desert View Tower), was once across the highway on the west side of town. Stars such as Marlene Dietrich and Clark Gable were guests, soaking in the Jacumba waters. All that remains is the building’s foundation and fireplace.

Cruise up Railroad Avenue for a real surprise... the old Jacumba train station (now a private residence) and train yards for the Carrizo Gorge Railway.

Successor to John D. Speckels’ San Diego and Arizona Railway, the company has successfully reopened the line from San Diego to El Centro. Freight trains now run overnight through the spectacular Carrizo Gorge, over the famous Goat Canyon trestle. It’s not accessible by car.

The railroad keeps several old passenger engines (vintage Electro-Motive) and some old passenger cars with fading Amtrak logos. To the west are several old, wooden train coaches that look to be the original rolling stock from the San Diego and Arizona’s debut in 1919.

Be aware that this isn’t a train museum and the area isn’t open to the public, but it all can be viewed from Railroad Avenue, on the public right-of-way. Look but don’t touch.

Back on Old Highway 80, head west. A few miles down the road is Bankhead Springs, named for U.S. Senator John Bankhead of Alabama. Not only was Bankhead considered the father of U.S. 80 and the “Broadway of America,” he was uncle of a real Broadway star, actress Tallulah Bankhead. An old hotel still stands here, but it is a private residence.

Boulevard is next as Old Highway 80 twists west. The community struggles on with some of its original U.S. 80 roadside businesses intact, namely the Wisteria Candy Cottage and the Mountain Garage. There are also a couple of grocery stores, so if you’ve become parched since Jacumba, stop in.

To stay on Old Highway 80 just west of town, keep right to county Highway S1 where state Route 94 splits off. The road to Live Oak Springs is one of the prettiest routes in the county. The Live Oak Springs resort offers year-round camping, a store and A-frame cabins. It’s become a popular spot for honeymoons. (37820 Old Highway 80, Boulevard, 619-766-4288).

At Crestwood Road, the old road meets the new and the Golden Acorn Casino.

Operated by the Campo tribe, part of the Kumeyaay nation, it’s another great spot to cool off on hot summer days (1800 Golden Acorn Way, 866-7WINBIG).

From here, catch I-8 back to San Diego, or make the left to continue on Old Highway 80 through La Posta and Buckman Springs to Sunrise Highway. Like the rest of Old 80, it’s slower than the freeway, allowing drivers to enjoy the scenery.

At Sunrise Highway, old 80 crosses I-8 to visit Pine Valley, Guatay and Descanso. I wasn’t in any hurry during my trip, so I took this stretch west to Japatul Valley Road, rather than flying down the interstate.

In a half-hour or so, I was back home. This eastern leg of Old Highway 80 has all the history of Route 66 but is much closer. Bobby Troup may not have crooned anything about Jacumba, but maybe that’s helped to keep this area one of our little secrets.

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